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January 28, 2006
Of the idli ilk
This is my new piece that came in today's Mumbai Mirror.
After having been around for 40 odd years, you often start believing that you’ve been there, done that and seen it all. Fewer and fewer things (unless they are IPODian gadgets or large-screen plasmas) get you excited. More and more, everything starts becoming routine. But then…once in a while…something happens….
Being in Matunga, I thought I knew everything that I had to about idlis. I’ve had idlis in all sizes and shapes; from simple idlis to idli-vada combinations, to dahi idli, butter-idli, fried idli, and masala idlis with cashews, etc embedded in them. I’ve had Muthu’s idlis, my Mom’s idlis, cocktail idlis, and the idli-like khottos and mudhos.
I’ve had idlis outside of Matunga, the best ever in Leela Goa, as well as in Kerala, Tamil Nadu, in Gujarat, Punjab, in London, San Diego, Dubai and God knows where else. I’ve had idlis without anything, with sambhar, with sambhar and chutney separately or sometimes even together and sometimes just with butter. I’ve fought with restaurateurs over their coconut chutneys, facing shameful admissions of embellishments with “daaliya” and “chana” or peanuts, as well as incredulous expressions of “how can you even ask if our chutney is pure coconut or no”.
Last week, on a lazy Sunday morning, we decided to go to Anand Bhuvan for breakfast. Wondering what to order apart from the usual idlis and dosas, my eyes fell on a name, written in chalk on a blackboard, in “Today’s Specials”, a dish I had never had before. There was nothing really great about the name itself, but the more I thought about it, the more I realized that I had never before had this combination….a combination of rasam and idli forming a dish called…“rasam idli”. Rasam vadas, yes… rasam on its own, yes… rasam with rice…yes, but rasam idli…that was a new one.
And…the rasam idlis were absolutely to die for. As I put each portion into my mouth, the rasam-soaked pieces would melt immediately, releasing an explosive mix of a difficult to describe but a predominantly tangy mix of flavors and aromas. The combination was amazing and between the two of us, my wife and I finished another plate as well.
I guess it’s all in the combination. Unlike sambhar, which is much too thick, idlis just soak up the rasam. With that, I guess, they become softer and the rasam becomes part of the idli itself. When you then eat that idli, the combination becomes unbeatable.
Its amazing, isn’t it. Nothing fancy, no fusion, just a change from sambhar to rasam and boom!
I am sure that I will be besieged by emails from people telling me that this is a very usual, ordinary experience for many of them and that they have been having rasam idlis for years and years. Maybe so, but it is not listed as an item in most menus (unless I have been blind) and for some strange reason, in the last forty years (OK, 30, to count only the conscious, idli-eating years), I’ve have never had this combination before.
So from now, its going to be rasam idlis, for a long time to come…until the next Nirvanic experience (which I actually had with some home-cooked red Thai curry, but I can’t talk about it, since neither the chef nor the experience was in Matunga or Greater Matunga).
Posted by bhavinj at January 28, 2006 06:47 AM
Comments
Talking of Anand Bhavan, I swear by the coffee there. Our office was close by (Same building as Mani's now is on Telang Road) and we used to relish the coffee of AB. Friday when AB was closed we used to call it dry day. Besides the coffee, try their Mulga podi.... My niece in the US only expects that and atleast a kilo at one go. Try the Mysore Masala Dosa at Air Conditioned Udipi close by. As my American cousin would vouch for, the toast sandwich there is divine too. Upma at AB is awesome though sometimes we do tend to go to Sharada Bhuvan also near the station. Spring Dosa at Shri Sundar used to be a rage but haven't been there in years. Mani's at Ruia is far far better than the one on Telang Road.
I too am a proud Matungaite studied in DPYA, Ruia and VJTI. Had the office there too but space constraints moved us to Mahim where believe me you can't find a decent Idli joint near by. Now have to depend on the dabba from home only and no more snacks except for the biscuits once in a while.
Manish Kamdar
Posted by: Manish
at June 2, 2006 03:58 PM
I agree Anand Bhavan is best, but no one can beat Ram Ashraya and Mani's
Posted by: Vinny
at June 13, 2006 09:29 PM
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